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Ciao! Magazine - Published: April-May 2007

Top Table 2004

The softly lit Luxsolé derives its name from the Latin for "light from the sun," and the menu offers a global taste tour of many of the most flavourful foods grown beneath this yellow orb.

Owners Lawrence, Chris, Eugene and Eric Warwaruk opened this comfortable South Osborne haven in 1999, when faced with the possibility of losing the family farm. With the success of their new business the close-knit family succeeded in saving the rural homestead. In the process, they gained national attention for their ground-breaking efforts.

Although not trained as chefs, the Warwaruk brothers have created a popular and eclectic menu of interesting dishes. A quick perusal of the list reveals their global culinary influences in such dishes as lamb masala, Kenyan spiced ribs, and Tuscan hummus dip. Catering to many different palates, the menu ranges from the traditional pizza to more unique items. For the most part, each dish successfully melds complex and complementary flavours and textures.

Still active in farming culture, the Warwaruks make regular treks to the country for many of their meat and fish requirements. They often buy the whole animal, necessitating creative use in their menu planning. In true pioneer style, even the chorizo and pepperoni sausage for pizzas is house made.

Printed menus are tucked inside old album covers. Rod Stewart, the Lovin' Spoonful and Olivia Newton John's unfortunate hit "Physical" set the stage for lively reminiscences of leg warmers past.

Tapas-style dishes offer small plates meant for sharing. They can be combined to create a variety packed meal, In this category the ginger bison is a stand-out. Crispy, crunchy bison strips are covered in a sticky garlic ginger sauce combined with diced, fresh English cucumber, creating a dish in which the flavours enhance and offset one another.

Another successful combination of tastes and textures is the coconut jumbo prawns paired with a peanut dipping sauce. For succulent prawns are lightly battered in a coconut breading, providing a satisfyingly crunchy feel. The peanut sauce is mildly flavoured and a good accompaniment to the prawns' bolder characteristics.

Several dishes make good use of the locally sourced ingredients.

Teriyaki-glazed tenderloin tips on a bed of spinach have a sweet and sour quality. They combine well with the rich potato flan, which is somewhat similar to scalloped potato. The brothers' uncle raises the lamb for the Indian-influenced braised lamb masala. Served on a bed of coconut basmati rice and permeated with a mild curry sauce, the lamb is a tender and creamy union. Button mushrooms, chunks of tomatoes and green peas lend the meal a homey feel.

Chorizo sausage appears in several dishes, including Nature's Pasta fettuccine with sun dried tomatoes. A rich, creamy Alfredo basil pesto sauce coats the al dente noodles and pairs deliciously with the spicy sausage and Roma tomatoes.

Newly introduced are Luxsolé's own sauces, packed for home purchase. The win list also shows the family's entrepreneurial zeal, with evocative names recalling farm life: Rusty Tractor, Prairie Watch Dog, and Leaky Rain Barrel.

Desserts, apart from gelati, are made in-house by a family relative. The Oreo cheesecake is light yet decadent.

Luxsolé is open Mon-Wed 11:30am-10pm, Thu 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11:30-Midnight, Sun 5pm-9pm.